Quote from Alex bobby on July 20, 2025, 10:48 AM

Kissing Black Bread: Fine Dining on the Shores of the Baltic in Estonia’s Capital

In Tallinn, Estonia’s charming capital on the Baltic Sea, culinary tradition meets cutting-edge gastronomy amid echoes of a complex past. While the UNESCO-protected Old Town charms tourists with its cobblestone streets and hearty Estonian classics like stewed bear and smoked pork sausage, true culinary innovation has shifted to Noblessner — a revitalised former submarine factory turned vibrant food hub. Here, at Black Bread (Lieb), the only two Michelin-starred restaurant in the Baltics, fine dining tells a story of history, sustainability, and bold modernity.

From Traditional Flavours to Nautical Innovation

Estonian cuisine is a layered tapestry reflecting centuries of cultural influence — the forests’ bounty of bear meat, the Scandinavian legacy of pickled Baltic herring, and Germanic smoked sausages. Yet, in Tallinn’s Old Town, these dishes often serve as nostalgia for visitors rather than a contemporary culinary challenge.

To truly taste Estonia’s evolving food culture, you need to venture to Noblessner, a harbour district once home to Russia’s premier submarine factory, founded by Emanuel Nobel’s nephew and Arthur Lessner in 1912. Now, its industrial heritage is preserved in the exposed rails and colour-coded tiles of restaurants like UMA and Lore Bistro, where tradition meets modern gastronomy beneath century-old ceilings.

Kristjan Peäske and the Evolution of Black Bread

Kristjan Peäske, co-founder of Lore Bistro and the visionary behind Black Bread (Lieb), recounts the journey from strict farm-to-table ethos to a more adventurous fusion approach inspired by international collaboration.

“We started with a strong focus on local ingredients,” Peäske explains, “using apples instead of lemons, embracing what the Baltic climate can give us.” Yet, over ten years, he found creativity stifled by rigid adherence to locality alone.

The pandemic brought an unexpected silver lining — the return of a former sous chef who introduced Peäske to Hiroaki Takeda, a fermentation expert from Copenhagen’s Noma. Their partnership infused the restaurant’s approach with new life, allowing global techniques to complement Estonia’s local bounty.

The Heart of Estonian Cuisine: Black Bread and Kama

At Black Bread, tradition remains sacred. Peäske shares childhood memories of reverence for the humble staple: “If black bread fell on the floor, you kissed it and put it back. It symbolised respect because not honouring your bread was believed to bring starvation.”

Kama, a historic mixture of barley, peas, and wheat flour, combined with sour milk or kefir, represents another cornerstone of nutrition. Meanwhile, meat and fish historically appeared only during celebrations, influenced heavily by German culinary customs, like pork and sauerkraut.

Modern Plates with Stories to Tell

At Lore, Peäske’s showcase of small plates highlights this blend of heritage and innovation:

• Goat Cheese Cream: Accompanied by pickled grapes and caramelised walnuts, this bright dish has no direct traditional source but embodies creative playfulness.
• Trout Roe with Charred Potato: Inspired by the Slavic “Kasukas” or “fur coat” layered salad, this dish reimagines it with local potatoes and trout roe instead of herring, layered with sour cream and mustard mayo.
• Grass-Fed Beef Tartare: Paired with sesame seed cream and Jerusalem artichoke, this dish nods to sustainability, highlighting Estonia’s natural grasslands and positive carbon farming impacts.

180° — A Radical Take on Fine Dining

Just steps away, the two Michelin-starred 180° by German chef Matthias Diether offers a culinary counterpoint. Diether dismisses strict localism, choosing only the finest ingredients regardless of origin. “I don’t need to feel bad about not prioritising locality,” he says, emphasising quality above all.

Diether’s kitchen reveals an artful simplicity — three ingredients per course, each intensely focused. Dishes like Normandy scallops with kimchi ice cream and dashi jus showcase East-meets-West innovation with precision and grace. A smoked eel dish with goose liver and rhubarb further proves the chef’s mastery in balancing hearty flavours with delicate brightness.

The Baltic’s Premier Dining Experience

At Black Bread, the interplay of local history and global inspiration is palpable. The restaurant’s open kitchen reveals chefs working like clockwork, crafting dishes that surprise and delight — from pigeon with salted morel and marinated cherry paired with a vibrant Pinot Noir, to the intricate Black Forest Gateau collaboration featuring liquid nitrogen popcorn and intense cherry reduction.

Despite their success, Estonia’s fine dining scene faces challenges in 2025. Rising living costs and changing consumer behaviour have cut covers in half for some top restaurants. Yet, as Diether confidently states, “Fine dining never ends.”

Final Thought

Tallinn’s culinary scene is a vivid reflection of Estonia itself — resilient, layered, and full of surprises. From the humble black bread revered by generations to the daring innovations of Michelin-starred kitchens, the city invites food lovers to explore a narrative that honours tradition while embracing bold creativity. Dining on the shores of the Baltic here isn’t just about a meal; it’s about tasting history, culture, and a future that’s rich with possibility. So whether you find yourself in a cozy Old Town tavern or at the sleek counters of Noblessner’s Black Bread, your partaking in a story much bigger than the plate — one that celebrates the soul of Estonia.

Conclusion: A Culinary Journey Worth Taking

In Tallinn, the past and present meet beautifully — the reverence for black bread, the spirit of the old submarine factory, and chefs daring to reinvent and reimagine. Whether you crave traditional tastes in the Old Town or crave an avant-garde experience on the Baltic shore, Estonia’s capital offers a uniquely rich palate.

Here, kissing black bread is more than an act — it’s a symbol of respect for sustenance and a toast to a vibrant culinary future on the shores of the Baltic Sea.

Plan your visit to Noblessner and explore Estonia’s boldest flavours where history and innovation meet — a fine dining experience that’s truly unforgettable.